THE ROME CHRONICLES: Water, water everywhere!


Text & Photography: Shermeen Beg

One of the things I enjoyed most during my forays of Rome was the sensation of sudden revelation. This is the secret of its charm and that of much of old Rome; it is also one of the reasons why the modern sectors of the city, built or ‘opened up’ by the Haussmann and Fascist schools of town planning during the twentieth century, appear dull in comparison.

I can only guess, but the Trevi Fountain appears to be the busiest monument in Rome; the only time I have been able to appreciate this baroque splendor was when I trekked out at sunrise to visit it, even then I was carefully watched by two policemen. Any other time of the day you have to be prepared for the over the shoulder tossing of coins into the fountain that is being faithfully recorded by the ‘non tossers’! Legend has it that the coin toss (over your left shoulder) will ensure your return to the eternal city in 7 years. This particular legend earns the city of Rome some 3000 Euros daily (that is collected every night and distributed to a supermarket that serves the poor of Rome, the Italian Red Cross, as well as other local charities); this may explain the watchful eye of the policemen at 7 am!

The allegories and symbolism of the fountain are lost on the masses as they pose for the perfect picture. The large architectural backdrop is not unlike a Roman triumphal arch. Crowning the attic and supported by symbolic representations of Fame, is the coat of arms of Pope Clement XII who commissioned the fountain. The four allegorical figures set against the balustrade probably represent the seasons. In the lower part, at the centre, stands the majestic figure of Ocean, personification of water, accompanied by tritons and seahorses pulling a chariot in the shape of a seashell. The juxtaposition of a calm horse on the left and an unruly one on the right serves to remind us of the dual nature of the sea. Around them, pools and basins overflowing with water, recreate a natural setting. In the niches on the sides stand the personifications of Abundance on the left and Health on the right. Water, forcefully gushing from the rocks into the basin below, is the real protagonist of the site.

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